In Timely Fashion--Topping it Off: Millinery in the Civil War Era

Silhouettes of the Past

1. Nearly every lady, whether young or old, would have worn a corset. These corsets were not always tightly laced, just pulled in to offer support to the back and bust area. As historical evidence shows, ladies even wore corsets while pregnant and nursing, known as "gestation" and nursing" stays.

2. Hoopskirts were not always a must. A lady of the working class would have worn a corded petticoat (an underskirt stiffened by horizontal rows of thick cording) or a small "cage" hoop. Upper-class ladies usually wore hoops that varied in size, depending upon their preference and the practicability of the dress/Hoops were usually somewhere between 90 and 120 inches in circumference.

3. The goal of popular fashions during the early 1860's was to make the waist look small, a feat that did not require tight-lacing. The bodice's shoulder seams dropped to between three and four inches below the point of the shoulder, making the shoulders appear wider. Sleeves were often full around the elbow, then fitted at the wrist. Bodice trim was horizontal rather than vertical, making the bust area appear larger in proportion to the waist. All of these features served to create the illusion of a small waist.

4. Cotton, wool and silk were the most popular fabrics for ladies' dresses, cotton being the least expensive and silk the most. Solid fabrics were probably the favorite, according to most period photographs, followed by small checked designs, plaids and prints. Most gowns were trimmed on the sleeves and upper bodices; only more expensive or elaborate dresses had trimmings on the skirt. Skirt embellishments frequently included bands of contrasting fabric, "pinked" ruffles (with a decorative or regular pinking shear) or plain ruffles. Growth tucks were very common, especially on younger girls' gowns, and could be as deep or narrow as the maker chose.

5. The majority of ladies' gowns of the 1860's were dart-fitted: tailored to the body by the use of two darts on each side of the bodice front closure. The back of the bodice was either a shaped three-piece back or a one-piece, tucked and stitched to resemble the 3-piece back. Some ladies employed the gathered-front bodice, rather than the darted, depending upon the fabric of the gown and choice of the wearer. Gathered bodices were still quite fitted to the body, being constructed over a darted lining. Narrow piping, cut on the bias, was used to reinforce seams and finish the waist and neckline edges.

6. Collars, cuffs and undersleeves were not optional "decorations" for the ladies of the period; they served a purpose in keeping body oils away from the costly materials of the gown. The collar and cuffs were hand-basted into the dress for easy removal and laundering. They were generally made of a durable cotton fabric that held up well under frequent washing and starching, and were typically white in color.

Where to start?

You have read the "rules" about ladies' dress of the 1860's; now is the time to apply these rules to your own reenactment wardrobe. But where should the beginning reenactor start? There is a wealth of "information" offered to the prospective buyer by sutlers and purveyors of reproduction goods, but this is often aimed more at selling you something rather than upholding standards of accuracy. What is necessary to start forming a basic lady's impression? Here is a list to help you get started:

1. Begin with the inside and work outwards: start with a good, sturdy chemise, corset (or stay) and pair of drawers. Many people are tempted to "cheat" on the foundation garments, believing that these are items that they can add later at their leisure. However, you cannot achieve a proper silhouette until you have the correct undergarments, and you will never regret having begun at the beginning with your wardrobe. These items don't have to be fancy; narrow tucks around the bottom edge of your drawers add a simple elegance to a very necessary garment. If you have the funds available, period-correct cage hoops are an excellent choice for your skirt support. They come either ready-made or in a kit, which you can construct yourself. Alternatively, a cotton "hoop skirt" with adjustable hoops, available from a number of sutlers and bridal shops, offers a less expensive choice. These hoops should be adjusted to a small size and secured (electrical tape wrapped around the metal hoop works well), and the length should be checked before you wear them. If the bottom rung of your hoop comes down below your ankle, the skirt is probably too long. Consider shortening the hoops by taking as many tucks as are necessary on the slip, between the rungs. At least one petticoat should be worn over the hoop, to "soften" the gown, and a petticoat may also be worn under the hoop, if more protection is desired.

2. Once you have your undergarments, begin on the dress. Remember, a simple, durable and well-made gown will be of far more service than a lavishly trimmed one. Simple doesn't mean dowdy, however, and there are vast ways to embellish a dart-fitted gown in keeping with a basic impression. If you have the funds, invest in a fine wool of good quality for your first gown; a sturdy cotton plaid or print is an excellent second choice. Consider "dressing up" your gown with a removable belt of self or contrasting fabric, a fine set of cuffs or a narrow lace-trimmed collar. A set of three or five tucks, from one to two inches in depth, adds spice to the hem of the dress; just be sure to figure in the added amount for each tuck when you cut out your skirt. Sleeves will vary with the style of the dress and the fabric chosen. Full "pagoda" sleeves should only be used with the fanciest of dresses. A more conservative choice would be a small, modified pagoda, a two-piece "coat" sleeve or a full sleeve gathered onto a cuff. If desired, dress up your gown with bias strips or braid sewn decoratively onto the bodice and sleeves, and don't forget your cuffs or undersleeves!

3. The issue of footwear is rather a complex one to address, since finding period shoes is either extremely difficult or very expensive. Most "Granny boots" will not work for a Civil War impression, since the heels are too high, the toes are too pointed, and the boots themselves are too tall. A simple, round- or square-toed boot that laces up to the ankle and has a one-inch heel will fill the bill until period-correct shoes can be purchased. Knee-length cotton or wool stockings are a comfortable choice and should be secured with flat, no-roll elastic garters just under the knee.

4. Once you have gathered these elements for your wardrobe, "top" them off with a good period hair-do. CDV's show us that all ladies of the 1860's parted their hair down the center of their head; side parts were reserved for men. The hairstyles of the period were meant to emphasize the width of the face, and thus were smoothed outwards from the head, rather than upwards. "Rats" were used to create volume, and were pinned under the hair, starting at the upper side of the head and angling back to just behind the ear. A modern invisible hairnet, stuffed with hair from your brush, shaped into a long, tubular roll and stitched closed, makes a wonderful rat. Younger ladies' styles were usually coils or braids of hair massed at the nape of the neck, while older ladies generally secured their hair higher on the head. Hairnets, or what are known as "snoods" today, were worn by some of the younger ladies, but these were always either knitted or crocheted of fine thread, never elastic. The nets would usually match the lady's hair color closely and would be secured over already-styled hair.

5. Every lady should complete her 1860's outfit with some sort of headgear, and the period options are quite varied to suit the tastes of all! Bonnets were very much in vogue during the Civil War. High- or low-crown, straw or silk, they were decked with flowers, fruit, feathers and ribbon. The bonnets from the early part of the war were lower, with an emphasis on the width of the face. Towards the end of the period, the bonnets grew taller, and the focus shifted to the top of the crown. Hats, most of them made of straw, were also quite popular, especially with the younger women. These were also trimmed with feathers, ribbon and flowers, and most had square crowns, rather than the rounded ones used in modern hats.

Sewing Pattern Suggestions

~ PastPatterns.com 1) Past Patterns #702 Dart-fitted bodices. An excellent "base" pattern, this lends itself well to individual tastes and trimmings. 2) Past Patterns #701 Gathered and Fitted Bodices. If you choose this pattern, be sure to cut out a "darted" lining rather than the gathered one suggested. 3) Past Patterns #708 An 1840's-1880's Corset. A very comfortable to wear and easy to make corset, this is also available in a kit.

~Simplicity.com 1) Simplicity, #7212. Another excellent and readily available base pattern. 2) Simplicity, #9769, Chemise, Corset and Drawers. You will probably want to shorten the sleeves on the chemise, but these are also an excellent starting place for 1860's undergarments.

Sources for bonnet patterns and trims

~ Miller's Millinery: wonderful patterns and bonnets for sale

~ Mrs. Christen's Miscellanea: bonnet frill kits (made of 100% English netting), silk ribbons, and trimmings for a bonnet, and Linda Gray's historically accurate reproduction bonnets.

~ The Stevenson House: accurate bonnets, winter bonnets, slat bonnets and kits, hats, and other accessories.

~ Originals by Kay: period correct bonnets, custom-made

Books on Millinery

~Hair, Hat, Hood, and Bonnet Too of the Era of the Hoop, Compiled by Heidi Marsh. Available through Fall Creek Suttlery.

~Handbook of Millinery, (1848) Reprint with color prints of 1860's bonnet fashions. Available from Mrs. Christen's Miscellanea.

Footwear

~ Ladies' Traveling Boots from Blockade Runner sutler are some of the most reasonably priced at $89.95 (low for hand-tooled leather boots!).

~ Ladies' "Victoria" boots from Fugawee Shoes feature a false side closure with "buttons" and an elastic gusset for easy wearing. These are even less expensive at $72. Fugawee also has lace-up boots, though they are a bit pricier than the Blockade Runner traveling boots.

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