In Timely Fashion--Topping it Off: Millinery in the Civil War Era

Head wear was an important part of a lady's ensemble in the Civil War era. There were many different types of headpieces. Bonnets, winter bonnets and hoods, slat bonnets, hats, headdresses, and hairnets. Bonnets are probably what women wore most often. Hats weren't worn as frequently and also weren't as formal as a bonnet. I think bonnets are so much fun since you get to trim them in so many different ways and re-trim them if you wish.

Bonnets in the 1860's could have a fashionable high brim called a spoon bonnet (if you can't guess, it's because it was shaped like a spoon.) There were also shorter and wider brims which were more fashionable before, and in the earlier parts of the war. But, this was a common style for older women and less fashionable ladies. Bonnets could be made of straw or consist of a buckram base, with a wire brim, and then covered with silk.

After the base of the bonnet was made, you would then add the curtain (also called "bavolet"), flowers and trims, functional ties and silk ribbon ties. The functional ties took most of the stress off of the silk ribbon ties so you wouldn't have to tie them so tightly. Many people don't realize there were ties under the silk ribbons. Some people also used to sometimes only tie the functional ties and leave their fashionable silk ties untied so they could show them off! The silk ties were most commonly 2-4 inches wide. At the most when tied, the ribbons wouldn't land past the waist. In addition to the functional ties, bonnet pins pinned on either side of the bonnet would also help keep the bonnet in place.

Bonnets were filled in on the inside with various items including cotton or silk netting, silk flowers, bows and fruits, which included glass berries. They would also trim the outside of the bonnet with flowers, ribbons, feathers and dried wheat ears. The bonnets of this era were a-symmetrical. So, when trimming a bonnet, they wouldn't trim each side exactly the same. One side might have a little more decoration to it than the other.

Slat bonnets were another type of head wear worn. The long brim kept the sun off your face and was especially nice when doing outside work in the hot sun. They were made of cotton cloth and also could be made of sheer materials. Mrs. Christen's Miscellanea carries these for a reasonable price as does the Stevenson House. You can also get a pattern to make them from Miller's Millinery.

Winter bonnets or hoods were obviously worn in the winter season. They could be made of silk then lined with a wool batting and quilted for warmth. Fur was a popular trim but there were also many different styles and ways to trim them as well. There were also hoods which could be made of silk, wool, knitted, or crocheted. Many Ladies' magazines from this era gave diagrams and illustrations of winter bonnets and hoods with directions on how to make them.

Hats of this era are not like the straw hats with wide brims most places sell today. They were more of an oval shape with a narrower brim which dipped lower in the front and back. Hats were more popular in the years before the war. Although, they were still worn by this time, but were more of a summer accessory and mostly worn by younger ladies.
Hats could be trimmed with velvet ribbon, silk ribbon, and embellished with bows, loops of ribbon, cockades, and plumes. Some had ties and some did not. A good way to get ideas on trimming hats or bonnets of this era is to look at CdVs (Carte de Visites). While fashion plates are also a good source, not everyone would have copied everything from them. Think of the fashion plates like the Vogue fashions of today. That is why CdVs and originals are the best sources to view when available.

For a ball, ladies would put their hair up in elegant styles and would accent the hairstyle with ribbons, bows, flowers, and feathers. They would either make up a headdress or individually add the decorations to the hair. The coiffure could be as simple or elegant as the lady wished.

Hairnets, I think it's safe to say, are one of the most misrepresented pieces in Civil War reenacting. If you go to a reenactment, you will most likely find nylon "snoods" somewhere in sight, either on someone's head or in a suttler's shop. WARNING!! Stay way away from these horrible inaccuracies! Hairnets of this era were NOT thick and chunky and were also not made of nylon. They were netted using fine silk thread and could be decorated with pleated silk ribbon.Also, I find many reenactors who wear these "snoods" just put it on without even doing their hair. The proper way to put on a hairnet is to first do your hair up in a neat style and then put the hairnet over your done up hair.

Another thing to keep in mind are the "doily hairnets" you see many places. These are also not correct for this era. Although it's hard to find the exact materials used from back then, you can still make one that looks very much like the ones they had for a fairly reasonable price. Sally Beauty Supply sells a hairnet which is a bit thicker than the very thin "lunch lady" hairnets that works marvelously. They are called "Wave-O-Net" and come in a little box for only $1 a piece. Talk about reasonable! I think they come in black, brown, and a lighter shade as well. It is very easy to make one of these hairnets into a fairly accurate reproduction hairnet. First take a piece of wire the length of the top part of your hairnet. To determine the length, fit the wire over your head and it should come just about to your ears. Encase the wire in a piece of ribbon or cloth sewn together. I just used the same ribbon I trimmed the net with for the casing. Then pin the top half of the hairnet to the encased wire and hand stitch it so it is secure. Now pleat some ribbon to fit over the wire and a little beyond the wire ends. Also hand sew the pleated ribbon in place. Voila! It's really not all that difficult, and it's even cheaper than those fake "snoods." You will look absolutely stunning!

About the Author

For Anna Allen, it all started about six years ago at a small local Civil War reenactment she and her family attended. Before that time, she didn't realize people dressed up in historical clothing and reenacted the past! What really caught her eye were the women's voluminous hoop skirted gowns.

As a girl, Anna's interest in history and re-living the past were inspired by the American Girl Dolls, which she enjoyed collecting. For her, Civil War reenacting was almost like playing dolls, except she became the doll! Instead of making historical clothing for the dolls, she found delight in creating her own. "Of course, it is impossible to travel back in time, but in donning the fashions of 140 years ago and spending the weekend in a reenactor's camp, I feel like I have."

The author welcomes reader response. Please address messages to Anna Allen.

Sources for bonnet patterns and trims

~ Miller's Millinery: wonderful patterns and bonnets for sale

~ Mrs. Christen's Miscellanea: bonnet frill kits (made of 100% English netting), silk ribbons, and trimmings for a bonnet, and Linda Gray's historically accurate reproduction bonnets.

~ The Stevenson House: accurate bonnets, winter bonnets, slat bonnets and kits, hats, and other accessories.

~ Originals by Kay: period correct bonnets, custom-made

Books on Millinery

~Hair, Hat, Hood, and Bonnet Too of the Era of the Hoop, Compiled by Heidi Marsh. Available through Fall Creek Suttlery.

~Handbook of Millinery, (1848) Reprint with color prints of 1860's bonnet fashions. Available from Mrs. Christen's Miscellanea.

Original head wear:

~http://www.heritagestudio.com/Hat31.JPG

~http://www.antique-fashion.com, period head wear for sale!

~http://www.vintagetextile.com

~http://www.rubylane.com/ni/shops/contentmentfarmantiques/iteml/937

~http://www.rubylane.com/ni/shops/contentmentfarmantiques/iteml/1060

~http://www.rubylane.com/ni/shops/contentmentfarmantiques/iteml/1052