By Kara Shallenberg
Yardage requirements for size 12 (bust 34″, underbust 31″):
2 yards of fabric and some muslin for lining. Pattern
These dimensions do NOT include seam allowances. Be sure to add them before cutting!
Bib: 12″ x 7″ (curving to 8.5″ at bottom center)
Waistband: 1″ x 32″
Shoulder straps: 2.25″ x 18″
Skirt front: 8.5″ wide at top edge, 32″ long at center front, 20″ wide at bottom edge (cut on FOLD)
Skirt back: fold skirt front down straight edge so top measures 6″ wide
- Cut one bib of fashion fabric, one of muslin.
- Cut two shoulder straps of fashion fabric, two of muslin.
- Cut one waistband of fashion fabric, one of muslin.
- Cut one skirt front on fold.
- Cut two skirt backs.
Trim 1/8″ from one long side of each shoulder strap lining piece. Align one long edge of each lining piece with its corresponding strap piece. Stitch. Now, scoot the lining over so the other long edge aligns with the other long strap edge. The lining is narrower than the strap, but line the long edges up perfectly anyway. Stitch. Turn and press. Since the lining is slightly narrower, the strap edges should pull over slightly onto the back side of the strap, preventing the lining from peeking out to the front. Short edges remain open.
1. Trim 1/16″ from straight edges of bib lining. Place lining right sides together with bib, align short edges, and stitch short edges. Now, poke the straps in between the layers, pushing right up close to the short-edge stitching. Molly’s apron straps are straight, but to fit my shoulders I pulled the inner edge of the strap seam allowance up about 3/8″. Stitch across. Trim corners, turn, press.
2. Run gathering stitches along curved edge (both layers), gather to about 8.5″. (Press flat to make it look like Molly’s apron)
Sew skirt side seams together. Hem back side edges. Mark center of front top seam allowance. Run gathering stitches along FRONT top edge and gather to 14″. (Back pieces are not gathered)
Pin waist edge to waistband (unfold waistband seam allowance), right sides together, and stitch.
Arrange the shoulder straps and stitch to waistband (right sides together). Trim away any extra from seam allowance.
Press under seam allowances of waistband lining, pressing under a little extra so lining is slightly narrower than waistband. Pin to back of waistband and hand stitch in place. Add a button and buttonhole at the waistband, hem skirt, and you’re all done! Now you just need to find your very own Roger Hamley… 😉
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